As we return to Madalena to catch the next ferry back to Faial we pass the beginning of the Mistérios du Sul do Pico walking trail. The trail leads hikers through the two ‘mysteries’ of the Island, São João and Silveira. Historically, the name ‘mistérios’ was applied to the lava fields created by the volcanic eruptions that formed the islands. The first inhabitants did not know how they were formed and therefore began to call them ‘mysteries of nature’.
We arrive back in the port of Madalena and we have a little while until the ferry departs. We decide to take a walk along the rocky beach. From here we can see the two islets off the coast of Pico named Deitado (meaning ‘lying down’) and Em-pe (meaning ‘standing up’).
Soon it is time to leave Pico Island and we board the ferry for the short journey to Faial Island. We are told to look out for a curious shape in the Deitado islet. Apparently from one angle a hole in the rock resembles a dolphin however as you approach the rock the shape changes and it begins to resemble the Virgin Mary. We are slightly sceptical but keep an eye on the rock as we set off anyway. To our surprise we see both shapes in the rock as we sail past.
As we journey across the stretch of water a storm catches up with us. We can feel the waves thrashing against the side of the ferry and as the rain comes many passengers sitting on the open-air top deck rush for cover. Luckily the trip back is shorter than expected and we make it back without getting too drenched.
It is our last night in the Azorean islands and after changing into some dry clothes we decide to walk to Peter Café Sport for dinner. The legendary bar is world-famous in the yachting world. What started as a small shop selling artefacts and drinks has now expanded to a pub/restaurant with a beautiful terrace overlooking the marina, a large souvenir shop, Peter’s whale watching shop and now the street name plaque has even been altered to include it’s nickname of ‘Peter Street’. Now one of the most famous yachting pubs in the world, it was established in 1918 by the current owner, José Azevedo’s, grandfather. The original owner, also named José Azevedo gained the nickname ‘Peter’ from a British officer during WWII and the name stuck. The Gin and Tonics served at Peter Café Sport gained notability and were very popular among sailors as they originally contained quinine, a substance that has fever-reducing, antimalarial, painkilling and anti-inflamatory properties. The recipe has since changed but the Peter Café Gin and Tonic is still famous, although how it is made is a well-kept secret. We find a table on the terrace and order two Peter’s Special Gin & Tonics as we watch the sun set over Horta Marina.