The holy building of Rengeō-in is popularly known as Sanjūsangen-dō and was founded in 1164 AD, at the demand of Emperor Goshirakawa. Goshirakawa was a pious devotee to Kannon Bodhisattva (the goddess of mercy) and an earnest sovereign in his attempt to bring about peace by spreading the Buddhistic faith throughout his country. Today, it is famed for being the only hall in Japan where one thousand Kannons are enshrined.
The temple grounds are quite unassuming (in comparison with other Japanese temples) but include Important Cultural Properties, such as a roofed earthen fence and the South Gate. Within the grounds is Honen’s Stone Monument, which was built by the priest Honen, founder of the Jōdo sect of Buddhism, to commemorate the thirteenth anniversary of the death of the former emperor, Goshirakawa. Visitors can also visit the natural spring for worshippers, which was discovered a year after the temple was established. The sound of the water gushing is said to be like that of a human cry and so the spring was named ‘The Spring Crying in the Night’.
The temple hall, which is approximately 120 metres long, is made in the Wayo-style architecture. It is the longest wooden structure in the world and is home to 1,022 designated national treasures. The common name of Sunjūsangen-dō is derived from the 33 bays (sanjūsan) between the columns of the building and literally means ‘hall with 33 spaces between the columns’ or ‘hall of 33 bays’. The number 33 is important, as it is believed that Kannon Bodhisattva saves all of mankind by disguising himself/herself as 33 different figures.
The building that stands today is a reconstruction, dating from 1266, and is registered as a National Treasure. The building was ordered to be reconstructed in the same way as the original, which housed a number of 12th century statues of the Buddhist deity, Juichimen-senju-sengen Kanzeon (Kannon with 11 faces and 1,000 arms), often called by the simplified name, “Kannon”. The original building was destroyed in a fire but 156 of the statues were rescued and remain in the temple to this day.
The chief image of the temple is the ‘thousand-armed’ statue of Kannon sitting in a meditative pose, which was carved by the celebrated sculptor Tankei in 1254, at the age of 82. Upon the head of the three-metre (11 feet) tall statue are ten smaller heads, including the image of Amida Buddha. It is flanked by 500 smaller, standing images of the deity. These beautiful statues were made of natural cypress and covered in gold-leaf. Each of the smaller Kannon statues hold the same pose, however their faces are unique and it is said that one can find the face of a loved one among the many images.
The 1,000 images of Kannon standing are the joint works of approximately 70 sculptors and were created under the command of the great masters, Unkei and his son, Tankei, over a period of over 100 years.
Each image of Kannon has 11 heads, to witness human suffering, and 42 arms, to fight human suffering. The two main arms are held in prayer and each of the 40 smaller hands is said to be able to save 25 worlds, therefore depicting Kannon’s 1,000 arms. It is also believed that Kannon can transform herself into 33 different figures and so the 1,001 statues can be considered to actually represent the appearance of 33,033 Kannons.
At either end of the temple hall, statues of the Thunder God (Rai-jin) and the Wind God (Fū-jin) can be seen on raised pedestals. The images of these gods were derived from people’s fear of and gratitude for nature. People would worship them as deities who controlled rain and wind and therefore the harvests. Fū-jin is believed to give rise to the wind and whirl it up, while Rai-jin shakes heaven and earth with his roaring thunderclaps.
Twenty-eight images that stand in a straight line in front of the Kannon statues are guardian deities that protect Kannon and those who pray to her. Each of these gods represent concepts including beauty, wisdom, prosperity, charity and strength.
The visual effect of the repeated lines of golden statues, glimmering in the dimmed hall is stunning and almost hallucinatory.
N.B. Photography inside the main hall is not permitted.
Opening hours 8:00 to 16:30 from April to October and 9:00 to 15:30 from November to March. Entrance 600 yen.
SOURCES:
- Information signs at Sanjusangendo Temple
- Sanjusangendo Temple Guide
- Sanjusangendo Temple Information Leaflet
- https://www.japan-experience.com/city-kyoto/sanjusangendo
- Lonely planet: Japan
- DK Eyewitness Travel: Japan
