Haunted by fairies and steeped in Celtic legend, Dunino Den is a site of pagan worship that still attracts pilgrims today.
Located in the wooded area just behind Dunino Abbey, close to St Andrews in Scotland, the den has a mystical, supernatural atmosphere. The pre-Christian holy site consists of two large crags, below which lies a clearing in the woods.
The first crag is known as the Altar Stone, due to a well and ancient footprint carved into the top of the rock, overlooking a small stream.
The well, which sits at the top of the rock, is rumoured to have been used as an altar for human sacrifice by ancient druids. However, there is no record of Druids taking part in such practices and it is more likely that the well was marvelled as a natural wonder.
A footprint carved into the rock next to the well gives us an insight into the importance of the site. Carved footprints were used during inauguration rituals, such as the anointing of kings and chieftains, suggesting that ancient kings were likely to have been crowned at Dunino Den.
First known to exist around 4000BC, Druids were the most learned people of their time in Scotland. By the 7th century AD, Druidism was driven underground for fear of persecution by Christian Missionaries. Many Pagan gods and goddesses were turned into Christian Saints and sacred wells were used as baptismal fonts.
The smaller crag, known as Pulpit Rock, may have been used to plant a wooden cross carried by Culdee monks at one time. The Culdee were an enigmatic group of early Christians in Scotland that frequented the same sites as the Druids.
A narrow, winding set of steps, carved into the rocks, lead down into the den, where Celtic crosses, odd faces and mystical symbols have been etched into the rocks by ancient Pagans, as well as more modern worshippers. Offerings, including ribbons, beads, coins and even women’s underwear dangle from branches and decorate the rocks around the site.
A wheelhead cross is inscribed into the rock at the bottom of the stone stairs. Although the style of the cross is at least one thousand years old, it is thought that the carving is more recent, as the soft sandstone rock is unlikely to have allowed for it to have survived over such a length of time. It is possible, however, that the cross has been re-inscribed on the site of an earlier marking.
With over 84,000 practicing Pagans thought to be living in the UK today, Dunino Den remains relatively unknown. Many people who do visit it continue to use the site in the way that it was used in ancient times. They see it as a gateway to the otherworld and offerings, as well as messages, are left for loved-ones and ancestors who have passed on. Monetary offerings are left in the rock crevices and it is believed that removing a coin from the site will bring bad luck.
Scattered sunlight filters through the trees, casting a golden glow on the forest floor. The babbling of the burn, the rustling of the leaves from the canopy above and occasional birdsong create an atmosphere of tranquility and enchantment.
Local legend has it that some years ago a visitor to Fife took a detour to visit Dunino Church. He followed the path through to woods to the altar at Dunino Den and, on the other side of the stream, he saw a picturesque hamlet. The cottages were thatched and covered with roses. An old man in knee breeches stood at the entrance to one of the houses, by a woman wearing a white mutch and a stuff gown. Meanwhile, a blacksmith leant on his hammer outside his workshop. A year later, the visitor returned to the site, this time with a companion to whom he had told his story. They arrived at the den and found the cottages gone and land on the other side of the burn bare, save for the trees. It is said that at least three or four cottages existed on the land, along with a blacksmith’s shop but they were all taken down some time last century.
To reach the site follow directions for Dunino Church (approximately three miles south-east of St Andrews) and park at the church car park. Follow the path down into the woods, leaving the church to your left and walking along the trail through the cemetery. Once you enter the woods, continue straight for a few minutes and you will reach the ‘altar’. The steps down into the den sit to the left of the altar. Take care when approaching the area, as there is a substantial drop from the top of the altar stone to the river below. The steps can be very slippery.
SOURCES:
- https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/dunino-den
- https://www.ancientpages.com/2017/01/06/dunino-den-mysterious-sacred-ancient-site-scotland-enigmatic-rock-faces-symbols/
- https://www.funkyellastravel.com/funkyellas-scottish-travel-blog/dunino-den-fife#
- https://www.themodernantiquarian.com/site/2460/dunino_den.htm
- https://www.scottishpf.org/an-introduction-to-paganism.html
- www.scottishchurches.org.uk/sites/site/id/4670/name/Dunino+Den+Dunino+Fife
- https://senchus.wordpress.com/2013/02/13/dunino-den-a-pictish-ritual-site/
- https://www.druidry.org/library/sacred-sites/dunino-den-our-history-nutshell
- The Culdees – An ancient religious enigma in Scotland by Jackie Queally (https://www.earthwise.me/wp-content/uploads/culdeebook.pdf)
